pacos bill
111 posts
Mar 18, 2010
6:11 PM
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We have had 2 rounds of young that can’t fully hatch out and die.. I had this happen years ago and blamed it on inbreeding to close.
But this is not the case with this pair, I would like to resolve this problem as this is going to be our base stock pair. Any help please Thanks Pacos Bill
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donnie james
976 posts
Mar 18, 2010
6:39 PM
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hay bill
you need to 10 drops of iodine in a gallon bottle for about 10 days and then you babies will hatch again....
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Donny James
"Fly The Best And Cull The Rest"
"Saying One Thing;Doing Its Another"
"Keep Your Head Planted In The Sky And Wings Spanned Wide"
1996 Piedmont Roller Club Lifetime Achievement Recipient
Portsmouth Roller Club Participation Award System Recipient 1994 '96 '97 And 2000
2001 Limestone,Ohio Sportsman's Club Lifetime Member Recipient
2002Portsmouth Roller Club Certified Judge
2004Portsmouth Roller Club Lifetime Member Recipient
"Miss Portsmouth"NBRC/90/J311 Rusty Dun Check Self Hen First Bird To Get Certified In Portsmouth Roller Club History With A Score Of 53 Judge By Joe Roe The 1993 World Cup Winner And John Bender The 1994 World Cup Winner
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pacos bill
112 posts
Mar 18, 2010
7:42 PM
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Donny thanks will try that Thanks Pacos Bill
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Leo
Member
131 posts
Mar 19, 2010
11:33 AM
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Foys has 'denatured iodine' for this purpose,,Regular Iodine is ok but be careful,five drops in a gallon of tap water is good .....LEO
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Pinwheel
184 posts
Mar 19, 2010
1:59 PM
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In the case that the egg is too dry, which is very plausible. when they are hatching or about to hatch, wet your finger with water and use that much to coat the entire egg. it worked for me.
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Flying in someone else's backyard: Portable Kits
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JDA
GOLD MEMBER
731 posts
Mar 19, 2010
6:30 PM
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Spray them twice a day with room temp water starting about the fourteenth day.JDA
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Scott
2924 posts
Mar 19, 2010
8:17 PM
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Paratyphoid
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Scott Campbell
" God Bless "
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Squabby*32
249 posts
Mar 19, 2010
11:11 PM
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Good Post Dave. Now I understand more about "good bacteria". Thanks
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DJJeffman Spinners
ATAPWGIYAHTLY
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wannaroll
172 posts
Mar 20, 2010
9:01 AM
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Check out this site is has info on every disease and meds for pigeons. Dr. Chalmers has racing pigeons.
copy and paste this link. lots of good info.
http://myweb.cableone.net/searl/IWC/Selected%20Diseases%20of%20Racing%20Pigeons.htm
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Dave - Hesperia, CA.
(San Bernardino Mountain Spinners)
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JMUrbon
989 posts
Mar 20, 2010
9:14 AM
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You know I posted a post on the other thread regarding young not hatching and the cause most likely being paratyphoid and listed the results to the young in the eggs and shortly there after. The importance of friendly bacteria is much more than many of you understand. I cant tell you all how many brand new lofts I have seen that have had health problems the first breeding season. This is because of the lack of freindly bacteria built up on the loft floor. Birds should be allowed to inhabit a loft for a period of time prior to putting birds down to breed. This gives them a chance to build some poop on the floor which in turn builds up the bacteria on the floor that is essential to raising pigeons.
Now I am not advocating 4-3 or even 2 inches of crap on the floor. But a small layer does your birds far more good than it hurts your conscience. Joe
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J.M.Urbon Lofts
A Proven Family of Spinners
http://www.freewebs.com/jmurbonlofts/
Last Edited by on Mar 22, 2010 4:15 PM
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Scott
2927 posts
Mar 21, 2010
9:02 AM
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Good post Joe...I remember being on a squab farm 10 or so years ago .. if a bird died they left it in the large breeding area to keep imunes high.
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Scott Campbell
" God Bless "
Last Edited by on Mar 21, 2010 9:04 AM
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JMUrbon
991 posts
Mar 21, 2010
4:03 PM
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I have seen that too Scott on a squab farm. Didnt seem rite but it worked for them. Joe
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J.M.Urbon Lofts
A Proven Family of Spinners
http://www.freewebs.com/jmurbonlofts/
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pacos bill
113 posts
Mar 22, 2010
3:11 PM
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Thanks a millon to all you guys. Pacos Bill
Last Edited by on Mar 22, 2010 3:12 PM
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